Booktopia has The Colette Sewing Handbook, 5 Fundamentals for a Great Sewing Experience by Sarai Mitnick. Buy a discounted Hardcover of The Colette . How to sew basic turned hem by machines, and a few different Handbook and editor of The Colette Guide lesforgesdessalles.info The Colette Sewing Handbook: Inspired Styles and Classic Techniques for the New Seamstress [Sarai Mitnick] on lesforgesdessalles.info *FREE* shipping on qualifying .
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The COLETTE SEWING HANDBOOK INSPIRED STYLES and CLASSIC TECHNIQUES for the NEW SEAMSTRESS SARAI MITNICK KRIME. The Colette Sewing lesforgesdessalles.info - Download as PDF File .pdf) or read online. Een handboek van collette in pdf: The Colette sewing handbook.
I had a hard time perfecting my darts without details on how to go about. This distance creates a seam allowance that is strong enough to last, but not so wide that it creates excess bulk in the garment. While it can be an amazing creative outlet, it can also fuel an almost endless desire to consume, to buy more things and to buy them less thoughtfully. Everything is very clearly explained with very well crafted photos and diagrams. Lists with This Book. The pattern helps you achieve the structure, which you can personalize for your own tastes and body.
In the past, you may have felt like planning a sewing project was just a matter of combining a pattern you like with a pretty fabric. But I invite you to think about it more as a design process. It might start with a pattern or a fabric, or it might be inspired by a piece of art or a photograph.
Like any exercise in design, it's really a matter of looking at lots of possibilities and then making editing decisions. My planning method has three steps: The first step is gathering inspiration. This means capturing anything that inspires you or sparks an idea and keeping it for later. Keeping track of the things that inspire you will help you to understand your taste over time, and ensure that none of your great ideas get lost.
The fashion-conscious among us might look to the runways for inspiration, and they can be a terrific source of ideas, but there's no reason to limit yourself to the current trends. Look to the world at large and see what intrigues you personally. You can probably list a host of influences on your personal taste and style, and these are often a great place to start.
Some ideas where inspiration often lurks: Think about what makes it really special or right for you. Vintage clothing often has details that are rarely seen in mass-produced modem clothing. I love to tum again and again to my favorite artists when I'm dreaming up ideas or thinking about color.
Sometimes raw materials are the only inspiration you need to get going. Even if you can't travel much, you can find street style blogs from all over the world showcasing looks in other cities. You begin to notice the possibilities more and to think about the way things affect you. It's a way to reflect, but also a way to formulate and refine your ideas.
Sketchbooks and notebooks are a necessity in my life, and I carry around a small one in my bag at all times. Whenever an idea strikes, I get it down on paper for future reference. My little black notebook contains everything from a hasty sketch of a chic woman I saw on the Paris Metro to a little diagram of an interesting sleeve placket I came across in a tailor's shop in San Francisco. Sometimes I paste in photos, images, or swatches.
When I return to flip through my notebooks, I'm greeted with a wealth of ideas and inspiring memories. When it comes time to formulate a plan, I love to create mood boards. Mood boards can help focus your ideas, letting you build your inspiration around a specific look or theme. They are incredibly helpful if you have an ambitious sewing goal, such as planning a new winter wardrobe, or several pieces you want to sew for an upcoming vacation.
Your board might include images that represent the look you want, sketches, accessories, color palettes, fabric swatches or trims. Gathering Inspiration Sketchbooks, notebooks and scrapbooks help you catalog and remember your ideas. Inspiration to Grow On Studying how clothing is constructed is a good way to become inspired. Vintage dresses in particular can inspire you to try If you study them closely, their fine details and interesting construction can trigger your curiosity and motivate you to learn something new.
Processing Inspiration Mood boards can help you process your inspiration into a solid idea. For me, this is usually a mental process of asking myself a few questions as I go through my inspiration sources. You might also choose to jot down notes or even start sketching more concrete ideas.
It's important to think critically about your own style and tastes before you start sewing. Sewing gives you an opportunity to express who you are in your daily life like almost nothing else can. Rather than assembling a wardrobe from the clothing you find, you can design your own style based only on the things you love, that say something about who you are.
I find this to be one of the greatest gifts sewing has to offer: Not only can you make something beautiful, but you can make something beautiful that says something about who you are, and you can use it in your real life.
In that sense, sewing is truly a practical art. They're comfortable, they fit your personality, and they match your taste in just the right way. They work with who you are and reflect your favorite qualities out into the world. At the same time, there are other styles that you might like, but never feel quite right when you put them on.
Distinguishing between the things that feel like you and the things that don't is the only real secret to developing a strong sense of style, one that means something to you.
Consider the people you believe to have the best personal style, whether they're famous style icons or people from your own life. You've probably noticed that they have pretty specific tastes. They know what they like, and they're true to themselves as individuals.
They cherry-pick the colors, textures and shapes that speak to them and work with who they are. I believe in a personal approach to style. To me, that means wearing the things that make you happy. This takes a bit of reflection and a dash of restraint. It means recognizing the things you like on others, but that may not work for you. It means probing yourself a little, asking yourself why certain kinds of clothes make you feel good. Try going into your closet and picking out five things that you love to wear.
It might include a ring given to you by your grandmother, your coziest sweater, your simplest black dress or bright turquoise shoes. Why do you feel so strongly about What is it that makes them special to you? What feelings do they provoke?
By understanding what you value in the things you love, you can begin to imagine a whole wardrobe of personal clothing, built around the qualities that are important to you. It may help to describe the qualities that appeal to you the most. Make a list of words that describe the aesthetics of your favorite things. You might also include the fabrics you love, the colors that work for you or the kinds of shapes you like to wear.
You don't need to put yourself in a box, but can still be helpful to recognize that you are drawn to things that are "dark, mysterious, romantic, feminine" or "minimalist, practical, androgynous, sleek. Remembering that you love neutrals may make it easier to put down that enticing tropical print at the fabric store.
Organic, natural, earthy Bright, bold, graphic Sparkling, glamorous, feminine I will be the first to admit that in spite of the fact that I ride a bicycle to work much of the time, I own far more party dresses than pairs ofjeans. Of course, it's nice to sew the things we love, but it's even nicer if we can sew things we love and will get to wear. Again, take a look at your closet.
You probably have a sense of where the holes are and the sorts of clothes you need more of. Often, it's the practical and mundane clothing that's most neglected, but these are sometimes the things we wear the most.
Stretch your imagination and try to think of creative ways to fill these gaps with things that still excite you. I may not be a jeans and T-shirt kind of woman, but I find some crisp dark denim and a pretty blouse works for me. Your lifestyle and budget are design constraints, and most designers will tell you that constraints boost creative thinking. It; Will Ifeel good in it? It; Will it be comfortable? Yes, sometimes it's helpful to have the shorthand of saying that you are "pear-shaped" or "apple-shaped.
Having large hips doesn't mean you don't also have a short torso. You might have a small bust, but also broad shoulders. Our bodies are highly individual, and our feelings about them and how we wish to dress them are, too. Dressing for your shape can be very subjective. One woman with a large bust may prefer to balance it with a full skirt. Another woman with the same proportions may feel overwhelmed in full skirts and prefer dresses that skim her figure.
The truth is, it's largely a matter of taste and how you relate to your body. There are no hard rules, because if you feel good wearing it, there's absolutely no reason not to.
Think about the kinds of shapes that you prefer wearing. Do you like your clothes to be sharp and tailored or soft and drapey? Do you like long skirts or short? Sleek shapes or fullness? Do you feel better when your clothes are very fitted or a bit loose? There are good reasons that you feel comfortable in certain shapes, and they are probably related to how you think about your body. Do you like tailored jackets because they show off your waist?
Do shorter skirts show off your legs? If you feel beautiful in it, there is no reason to listen to general fashion prescriptions. Rules of thumb can sometimes be helpful, but you no doubt have a much better idea of what works for you than any expert. After all, you're the one living in your body. By the same token, you should think about shapes that make you feel uncomfortable. You don't need to dwell on what you see as your "flaws," but just think about what you truly feel happy wearing.
You may love the look of full skirts, but if you feel frumpy in them, there's no reason to waste time sewing them. Which do you feel emphasize the things you like about your body? Which make you most comfortable? A Fitted, Tailored Sheath This vintage dress is fitted to the body with darts and seams, making it a more fitted and tailored style. The linen fabric A Flowing, Loose Dress While this vintage dress is shown on the same body, it has a very different look.
It is fitted around the body only with softy gathers at the waist and neck, and the sheer silk fabric flows and moves gracefully. Which would you rather wear? Now it's time to formulate a concrete plan of attack that will guide your sewing projects and keep you on track. Not everyone is a planner, and I do think there should be plenty of room for experimentation and the occasional impulse project. But having an overall plan is a great way to ensure that you spend your time and money on things you both love After all, sewing is not cheap.
Even if you score a great deal on patterns and fabrics, the amount of time it takes to construct a garment makes it expensive in terms of time. So do it thoughtfully and make it a labor of love. This step is where you go from a general concept to making definite decisions about you pattern, fabric, trims, details you want to add and construction techniques you'd like to try. The form your plan takes is up to you. Some people enjoy planning things on a large scale, while others prefer to take their projects one at a time.
This is the method I use to plan my projects, but feel free to pick and choose the methods that will work best for you.
Adding to Your Fashion Sketch If you know what sewing pattern you will use, you can use the technical drawing on the pattern envelope to draw your sketch.
Add notes about fabric, color and other details you plan to use. In early fall and early spring, I sift through my inspiration books, folders and images. I'll also look at the fabric and patterns I own, and perhaps take a trip to the fabric store just to gather ideas. I then edit them based on the constraints of my life and sketch a mini-wardrobe of what I'd like to wear that season.
It might contain 10 to 15 pieces, some things I already own, some things I plan to buy, and many things I'd like to sew. From my mini-wardrobe, I list the projects I plan to sew in order to create it. I'll add notes on fabric types, patterns and notions. I use a croquis template to sketch my next project, drawing the lines over the template and adding more specific notes and fabric swatches to fully flesh it out.
On the next page, I'll show you how to create your own personalized croquis template. When I have an idea for a "someday" project, I try to capture it. This might be a sketch, or an inspirational photo with notes.
This is a little different from an inspiration notebook for me. It's more of a queue of future projects. That way, if I have a great idea but don't have time for it currently, I can be confident that it's been captured, and that I'll return to it the next time I'm planning. And that is exactly what it is: You can make use of this With this drawing template at hand, you can easily sketch clothing on your own figure, examining the lines and visualizing the final garment more easily.
When you've finalized your sketch, you can add details, such as fabric swatches and notes on trims, transforming your croquis into a concrete sewing plan. To get an accurate sketch of your body, you can use a camera and simply trace your figure. You might choose dance attire, such as leotards and leggings, or simply wear your normal undergarments. Take a photo straight on, standing in a normal posture.
You might even put copies into a binder to use as a fashion sketchbook. But if that were the whole story, making clothing would be a simple task, just a matter of following directions to the letter.
In reality, your task is not just cutting and sewing, but translating between the beautiful image in your head and the actual structure you have laid out for you. Doing that requires a sort of sewing literacy, an ability to read a pattern just as you read written instructions.
The sewing pattern forms the bones of your project, a scaffolding on which you can hang so many of your own ideas. The pattern helps you achieve the structure, which you can personalize for your own tastes and body.
We'll discuss customizing a pattern for a perfect fit in chapter four, but first let's explore the pattern itself. A sewing pattern is basically a template of your garment. The structure of a garment is a pretty difficult thing to develop yourself, even for experienced sewists, so having a starting point is invaluable for home sewing. With a sewing pattern, the designer provides you with what is essentially a paper version of your project in a range of standard sizes, with Your job is to use that template to cut and mark your own version before sewing it together.
There are many ways to do this, depending on your fabric, your project and your own preferences. Even if you're experienced with sewing patterns, I invite you to take a look at some of the tools and techniques in this chapter and see if there are some you might like to try or revisit.
We tend to think that the written instruction sheet or book that comes with a pattern is the source of all directions. But, in fact, the written instructions and the construction symbols on the pattern work together to form a complete set of instructions. That way, the written instructions can refer to specific points or areas of the pattern, and you'll always know exactly where it's referring to.
The arrows on your pattern should always be placed parallel to the long edges of the fabric, in other words the fold or selvages. An arrow bracket that points to the edge of a pattern piece indicates that it should be placed on the fold of the fabric.
You will find notches along the cutting lines on your pattern. These help you figure out how the pieces go together. The notches of adjoining pieces should match exactly when they are sewn together. So looking out for them should help stop you from sewing a piece in upside down or in the wrong place.
The lines show where you will stitch the dart together, and are known as the "legs" of the dart. Sometimes the lines are dashed, or there may be circles along the line for you to match up. Single-sided darts usually fall on a seam line, whereas double-sided might be placed anywhere that requires a bit of shaping. Curved darts are a little trickier to mark and stitch, but provide a beautiful, naturally curved shape.
Circles, dots, squares and triangles are used to mark a spot on the pattern that is referenced in the written instructions. They often indicate a placement point for a zipper or a pocket, for example , or they might show you where to begin or end stitching. Your instructions will explain what to do. You will often find these lines on the bottom area of bodice patterns, and around the hips or lower on skirts. They will help you determine placement so that buttons are evenly spaced, and also run directly down the center of the placket.
The sizes are "nested," meaning they are stacked together, somewhat like a Russian Each size is indicated by a different style of line. Find your size, and cut along that line for each pattern piece. Indications of Sizing Each line style represents a different size for this pattern.
For this pattern, I've cut out a size 8. Notice that the pattern markings the large and small circles are also printed in mUltiple sizes. The shears point to a circle for a size 8. The illustration at top left indicates that the pattern piece should be placed with the left edge against the The illustration at top right indicates that piece should be placed straight along the fabric's grainline. The bottom illustration has an arrow indicating that the piece should be placed on the bias.
The construction symbols should all make sense to you when you begin. If you've ever bought a flattering pair of jeans only to have them feel two sizes too small after the first wash, you're undoubtedly aware of the phenomenon known as shrinkage. Along with size changes, washing can also effect the color, texture and drape of fabric, and that can interfere with getting the final product you're after.
But unlike off-the-rack clothing, you can minimize these surprises by pretreating your fabric in the exact same way you plan to clean your garment. Many delicate fabrics, such as silks and rayons, can be washed by hand using a gentle detergent and hung to dry. Rayon shrinks quite a bit, even over multiple washings, so I recommend washing it two or three times before cutting. Silk does not shrink, but it does often change in texture and drape.
Sturdier cottons, linens and other substantial fabrics can be washed and dried by machine, and multiple washings will help Wool is usually best left for the dry-cleaner because it can continue to change with each successive washing.
Overall, the important thing is that you treat your fabric in the same way you plan to clean it later. Once the fabric is dry, iron it to remove any wrinkles. Gently iron along the lengthwise grain, running the iron up and down, parallel to the selvages. This will help stretch it into shape after its first washing.
You want to get your fabric pretty much into the state it will live in as a garment: Treat Your Fabric Right You're about to invest quite a bit of thought and time into your very own handmade garment, so why not start your fabric out right?
I wash most of my handmade clothing by hand using a gentle, quality detergent with a lovely scent. It's important to prewash your fabric in the same gentle way you plan to treat your garment. These are called the lengthwise grain and the crosswise grain. These should ideally be at 90 degrees to one another, and normally, they are. But occasionally, the threads become twisted, or "off grain.
The first thing you want to do is make sure that the ends of your fabric have been cut or tom straight across the crosswise grain. Some fabrics tear easily along the crosswise grain, so if you noticed that your fabric was tom off the bolt in the store rather than cut, you're all set. If you're not sure if the ends are exactly straight, it's easy to straighten them yourself.
See right. This process is often referred to as "trueing up. If your cut or tom ends align, you're ready to start! If they won't align properly, then your fabric is off grain.
To fix this, unfold your fabric and, holding it at opposite diagonal comers, give it a firm tug. Do this for both sets of diagonal comers to help the grain straighten out again. Work With Your Fabric You want to keep in line with the natural structure of your fabric, not fight against it. That means getting all of the ends Straightening by Tearing Some fabrics tear easily on the crosswise grain, and some do not.
Try making a small snip right near the end and give it a firm pull to tear it a little bit. If it tears neatly, tear it all the way across and you'll now have a completely straight end to your fabric. Tear the other end in the same way for two perfectly straight edges. Straightening by Pulling Thread and Cutting If it won't tear easily, use this second method.
Use a pin to pull up one single crosswise thread. Pull it all the way out, from one selvage to the other. Now cut along the line left by the empty space, and you will have a perfectly straight end. If it's folded, simply fold it lengthwise with the front sides together. In either case, lay your fabric so that it's aligned with the edge of your table. Try not to let any excess fabric hang over the edge, where it can pull.
Instead, fold it up and set it along the edge of the table, or support it with another table or chair. When you're ready to cut your fabric, you should first decide how the pieces will be laid out on the fabric. This will largely be determined by your pattern, but you may need to tweak the layout here and there for your particular fabric.
Examine the Pattern's Cutting Layout Your pattern has diagrams indicating how to lay out your pieces on various widths of fabric, and these are a great place to start. Sometimes you will find that there are slightly more economical ways of laying out your pieces, so feel free to play around a bit. The patternmaker often can't show you the optimal layout for every single size included in the pattern, so testing other layouts can sometimes save a bit of fabric. Check for a Nap or One-Way Design In addition, the type of fabric you use may require a layout other than what's shown.
Take a look to see if your fabric looks different when it's held upside down or crossways. Solid fabrics with a nap or pile like velvet will look different at these angles, and so will one-way printed designs. If this is the case, you will have to use a one-way layout, in which all the pattern pieces have their top end facing the same direction. Here, I've reversed pieces D, E and A. Give it a light press with a dry iron to smooth out any wrinkles. Cut your paper pattern carefully, cutting just on the inside of the cutting lines for your size.
If you are planning to use the pattern more than once, it can be a good idea to trace the pattern from its original tissue onto sturdier paper. Professional designers and patternmakers often use oak tag, a strong and thick paper similar to a heavy cardstock. Your local market might have the pattern paper of your dreams. Freezer paper is a sturdy paper with a coating on one side that adheres to fabric when ironed. You can trace your pattern onto it, then iron it right onto your fabric.
This makes As a bonus, if your fabric is slippery and difficult to cut, you can fuse the freezer paper to your fabric before cutting to help stabilize the pieces. Then simply cut the paper and fabric at the same time. When you're finished, peel the paper off before sewing. Freezer paper is available from many markets, or you can order it in a variety of widths from packaging suppliers. Be sure to test the freezer paper on a swatch of your fabric to make sure it pulls cleanly away.
Pattern pieces should be face up, unless your cutting layout tells you otherwise. Fabric should be wrong-side up, so any markings will be on the wrong side. To do this, measure from each end of the arrow to the fold or to the selvage.
If the measurement is the same at both ends of the arrow, then your pattern piece is parallel and aligned correctly.
You can use a clear ruler or a measuring tape for longer measurements. Pattern weights are a great alternative. They have the added benefit of making your pieces easy to position and reposition. You can use just about anything small and heavy as a pattern weight, but I'm This distance creates a seam allowance that is strong enough to last, but not so wide that it creates excess bulk in the garment.
However, some seam allowances may be wider or narrower, and these should always be noted on yourpattem. Deeply curved areas, for example, can be easier to sew with a smaller seam allowance.
Some pattem companies-particularly European companies-use different allowancesfor theirpattems. But they are not at all difficult ifyou take a little care when cutting. To make sure stripes or plaids align, match them up at the selvages and ends of the fabric before cutting. Align the Fabric's Stripes , It:: In the photo, I am cutting two back pieces for a blouse, the right and left side.
Because they meet at the center with buttons, it's important that the stripes match up in the middle. By lining up the stripes all along the selvage before cutting, I know that both pieces have stripes in the same placement, and that they'll meet up at the button placket. This method is easy and perfect for any identical pieces that will be sewn down the center, such as a bodice with a seam down the front.
To address this, lay one pattern piece on the fold. Whether you use a pen or pin, make sure you mark on both pattern pieces. In this case, I've chosen the edge of a black line for my match point. Using a rotary ruler and marker, trace from the match point along the line in the fabric to the bottom of the pattern piece. Here, I'm tracing along the black line. I 3 Repeat for the second piece. The line should be parallel to the You can see here that if the second pattern piece were cut on the fold, the plaid pattern would not match.
At this point, you would cut out the first piece. You would then refold the fabric so that your second pattern piece is positioned on the fold, with the match line on your selected stripe, and cut. Because the pattern is even, it will match at both shoulder seams when the pieces are unfolded and sewn together. The pattern instructions will refer to these marks frequently, providing a vital link between the instructions you read and what you see in front of you when sewing. When is the best time to mark your pieces?
So far, we've talked about getting all of your pattern pieces laid out, with pattern weights holding them in place. If you are going to be using fabric shears to cut your fabric, the best way to get an accurate cut is to first trace the cutting lines onto your fabric, transfer all of the construction marks, then remove the pattern before cutting.
If you use a rotary cutter instead of shears, you can cut your pattern first without removing the pattern pieces, then transfer the construction marks. It's best to have an assortment, because you will likely use them all in your sewing career, and each project may be different. I often use a variety of marking methods within one project. There are no exact rules.
You just need a tool that will produce marks that are easy to see, stay put while you're sewing and will disappear from your fabric when you're done. Marking Tools These marking tools are widely available and are generally water soluble or easy to remove.
Tailor's chalk is wonderful for easy marking, but becomes dull rather quickly, whereas water soluble pens and pencils give a fine line but are sometimes hard, waxy or difficult to see. A chalk liner combines the best of both worlds by releasing a fine line of loose chalk through its tip. Mark With Pencils, Pens or Chalk To transfer the markings, push a pin through your pattern and fabric at the point you want to mark.
Then just lift the paper pattern and mark the fabric at the exact point the pin is stuck through. Life the fabric slightly and mark the other side before pulling out your pin. This can be tricky if you haven't cut your In that case, wait until you've cut the pattern before marking the other side. Mark With Tailor's Tacks Tailors tacks employ needle and thread to mark certain points on the fabric.
First, make a small slit in your paper pattern at the point you wish to mark. Then use a needle and fine thread I recommend silk or fine cotton and sew several extremely loose loops at this point, through all layers of your fabric, leaving long thread tails at the ends.
Remove the pattern and gently pull apart the two layers of fabric slightly. With your scissors between the two layers, cut the thread loops in the center. You will now have a tack on each piece in the same spot. Because I find that tailor's tacks fall out easily, I often follow them up with chalk or thread tracing.
Mark With Snips You can use your scissors to mark points that occur along the edges of your pattern pieces, such as match points at notches. Just make a small snip in the seam allowance at these points. Combining snips at the endpoints with a pin at the tip makes marking dart placement very fast and easy! Mark With Pins Transferring marks doesn't need to be laborious. A quick and easy way to transfer marks is just to insert a pin at marking points, such as circles or dart tips. If you are cutting two layers, be sure to tum your pattern over and mark the opposite side as well.
Pins are a very easy way to mark single points, and work well for most fabrics, as long as they're not very loosely woven, which can cause pins to fall out easily. Mark With Thread Tracing Tracing marks with thread is a traditional method and extremely useful because it can be done on any fabric and is highly reliable.
You can use different colors for different types of markings, and best of all in my book, the tracings show on both sides of the fabric. Again, I recommend a fine silk or cotton thread, as they are less damaging to fabric. Use hand basting stitches to create lines or single marks on your fabric.
What seems like a small bit of extra fabric on one piece multiplies with all of the other pieces, and pretty Or your pieces don't line up along the seam, so you have to trim a little off here and there, which has a cascading effect.
Pretty soon, none of your seams match and sewing becomes more difficult than it needs to be. Your pattern is like a jigsaw puzzle; the pieces go together in a very specific way.
That isn't to say that you can't make changes. In fact, much of the time you should if you want something perfect for you! But any changes you make to the pieces should be thoughtful and intentional, so that they will continue to fit together. Sewing already has so many variables, why make it harder on yourself by introducing guesswork?
What you need is a temporary stabilizer. One option to keep these tricky beauties in check is a spray stabilizer. You simply spray it onto your entire piece of prewashedfabric and let it dry. Theformerly temperamental fabric will become stiff and easy to work with until you wash it again. Spray starch is similar but has more of a tendency to scorch. Ifyou're uneasy about spraying anything onto yourfavorite silks a second option is to place paper on your cutting table underneath yourfabric.
Then, just use your shears to cut right through the paper along with thefabric. Be careful because cutting throughpaper can dull your shears quickly so have them sharpenedfrequently. Fabric Shears Are Versatile Many sewers use a sharp pair of fabric shears to cut their fabric.
Shears are easy to use and versatile, conquering tight comers and angles with ease. They can cut through the bulkiest fabrics without a problem, and can be used for a variety of tasks in the sewing room, such as snipping threads or cutting notches. A good pair of shears, properly maintained, will last you through the years.
Whether or not you choose to do most of your cutting with shears, you'll still find them indispensable for general sewing tasks. Before you cut, trace the pattern and transfer all the marks, as well as the outline of the pattern. Cut your fabric right along the traced edge. Use long, full strokes rather than short and choppy ones whenever possible.
When you get to tighter curves or angles, use shorter strokes. Rotary Cutters Are Efficient Rotary cutters have great benefits in terms of speed and efficiency. The round blade rolls along the fabric as it cuts without lifting the fabric from the cutting surface. This means you can cut with the paper pattern on your fabric, without tracing the lines onto your fabric, and still get a precise cut.
Once you've gotten the hang of it, you can get your cutting done in about half the time. The downside to being so speedy is that it's easy to make mistakes and easy to cut your fingers, so be careful. You'll need to purchase a cutting mat to protect the surface underneath. Invest in a large one so there's no need to upgrade later. It has a simple darted fit and sits just slightly below the natural waist. You can use it to experiment with new marking techniques you may not have tried before, such as tailor's tacks, or try out the freezer paper tip for cutting your pattern pieces.
Practice taking your time and cutting carefully around the curves. We'll also create a small paper template to help you mark the scalloped stitching line at the hem. Once you've finished that lovely hem, you'll most certainly see how careful and accurate marking can make sewing less frustrating. We'll also cover my preferred technique for attaching a facing to a zipper.
For this skirt, we'll be using an invisible zipper, which is perhaps the easiest zipper to install. For help with putting the zipper in, review the page Start by using the steps we covered in this chapter to cut out your pattern and transfer the markings, then move into the instructions to put your skirt together. The blouse in this photo is the Sencha pattern, published by Colette Patterns.
Medium-weightfabrics, such as silk twill, dupioni, cottonpique, brocade, taffeta orpoplin are good choices. Lighter home decorfabrics work wellfor this skirt, too. To find your size, check the size chart at the end of the book. Your cutting layout may also need to change for a napped or one-way fabric see page 44 for details , or you may need a different layout for matching stripes or plaids see pages To do this, create a Templates can help you draw guidelines when you need to stitch more complicated shapes.
Trace the edge of one of the hem curves onto a separate sheet of paper. Cut your paper template along this new line. Figure 1 You will use this template on a single curve to trace all the curves that form the stitching line for the scallops. Figure 3 Stitch darts from the edges toward the points and tie off the ends. Press the seam open and finish the raw edges. Note that, with the pieces wrong side out, the left side seam of the facing will appear to be on the opposite side when compared to the skirt itself.
That is Figure 6 Before continuing, take a look at figures 5 and 6 and make sure your side seams appear as shown in the diagrams. Press the seams open. It's easier to finish these edges before putting in the zipper. See chapter six to learn more about seam finishes.
For detailed instructions, see page If you choose to add a lining, see pages Ii To begin, hold your skirt with the right side facing you. At the top of the zipper opening, fold the seam allowance and zipper out so that the back of the zipper is facing up, toward you. Stitch the facing in place at the opening edges, stitching close to the zipper teeth.
You will be stitching within the seam allowance. The zipper should now be between the seam allowance and the wrong side of the facing. Do this on both sides of the opening and pin in place. Even if you have no interest in the patterns included, I would still recommend this to people who sew, especially beginners.
It teaches you so much. It really has everything you could need to know about sewing aside from how to work your machine, but hey, it can't have everything. I coul This book is really fabulous.
I could definitely see myself making a few of them, especially heading into the holiday season. Mar 03, Gail Richmond rated it really liked it. Here are clear directions to make a piece of clothing fit your unique body shape, quirks and all. The patterns for dresses and tops are not necessarily those I would wear, but the pattern-fitting is superb information. Nov 04, Talie rated it liked it Shelves: Some restrictive views to what to wear in color and style based on your shape and coloring.
This might make a good background to automating clothing suggestions for a person based on their photo as a starting point. Detailed enough in this book to be a solid starting point. Some great links to sewing blogs by people using patterns and doing their own thing.
Jan 23, Veronica Smyth rated it it was amazing Shelves: Very instructional with sophisticated yet simple looking projects. Would love to work my way through this book! Sep 11, Jen rated it really liked it.
Good information for a newbie sewer about fabrics and techniques, but the patterns don't thrill me. Jul 21, Nicole rated it really liked it. Great handbook that finally made me stop and take a step back to consider each step in following a pattern.
Nov 26, V Mignon rated it really liked it Shelves: I've always enjoyed the way Sarai Mitnick writes about sewing and her blog, The Coletterie, is filled with articles that examine fashion, fabric, and our lives in clothes with an analytical eye.
The Colette Sewing Handbook is a sewing book that is certainly aimed towards beginning sewers. The projects are quite simple. But what Colette has always focused on, and what makes me love their patterns both Colette and Seamwork is the focus on technique rather than difficulty. And I think that it was I've always enjoyed the way Sarai Mitnick writes about sewing and her blog, The Coletterie, is filled with articles that examine fashion, fabric, and our lives in clothes with an analytical eye.
And I think that it was due to reading the Colette blog that I began hunting down Youtube demonstrations for different techniques. This is a great book for beginning with the technique involved in sewing, using simple patterns to practice making your own bias tape or understand the different drapes of fabric and how it can alter your project.
Even as someone who is an intermediate sewer, there were a few things I didn't know that Mitnick covered. I thought clips and notches were the same thing.
Now I know: And while I knew about selvages and bias, I had never been taught weft and warp. So here's to me making my own bias tape! Mar 02, Lise rated it it was amazing Shelves: Having started sewing again after a year break, my skills were a bit rusty.
I bought the Collette Sewing Handbook to re-learn basic techniques, but the book offers much more than that. Sarai Mitnick provides a terrific framework for approaching sewing as a craft. She teaches you how to approach your sewing projects in the context of your overall skill development and wardrobe planning.
And beyond that - her fashion designs are timeless and elegant. I'm planning on making most of the garments Having started sewing again after a year break, my skills were a bit rusty. I'm planning on making most of the garments in this book, and I've already scoured the Collette patterns site to purchase more. If you are a new sewer, or if you want to expand your foundation, buy this book. You won't be disappointed - instead, you'll be inspired and energized!
Nov 06, Korri added it Shelves: I've enjoyed browsing through the beautiful dresses, blouses, and jackets on Colette Patterns so I was excited to see this book in the library. Sarah Mitnick covers some of the tools, techniques, and materials that a seamstress will need to consider when creating clothing. The illustrations of different fabrics and of how to alter patterns and dresses for the best fit were particularly useful.
I would hestitate to recommend this to brand new seamstresses if only because it is not comprehensive i I've enjoyed browsing through the beautiful dresses, blouses, and jackets on Colette Patterns so I was excited to see this book in the library. I would hestitate to recommend this to brand new seamstresses if only because it is not comprehensive in terms of the basic mechanics of sewing--but then trial and error is one of the best ways to learn!
I'm beginning to transfer the Truffle and Licorice dress patterns to cardstock so I can alter them to fit perfectly Jan 13, Peggy rated it really liked it Shelves: This is a great book for the advanced beginner.
Everything is very clearly explained with very well crafted photos and diagrams. I particularly appreciated the well detailed basic fitting explanations.
I have been focusing on fit at the moment in my sewing development. However, it is basic fitting that is described in this book, you will need to find a more detailed book for help with advanced fitting problems.
My one disappointment is that the last pattern, which should be the culmination of le This is a great book for the advanced beginner. My one disappointment is that the last pattern, which should be the culmination of learning all the techniques in the book, seemed to be kind of a frumpy garment in my opinion.
Jan 08, Mary rated it it was amazing. This was the book that taught me how to sew, back in It's thorough, clear, and while many beginner sewing books have you making things like aprons or pillowcases stuff that you will likely not end up wearing or using , the included patterns are simple but for garments that you actually want to wear. For more experienced sewists who are a fan of Colette's sewing patterns, the book is a great value in that it provides five patterns in Colette's signature style for just a little more than th This was the book that taught me how to sew, back in For more experienced sewists who are a fan of Colette's sewing patterns, the book is a great value in that it provides five patterns in Colette's signature style for just a little more than the price of one of their patterns individually.
Feb 02, Catherine Vigil rated it it was amazing.
Great book! I borrowed from my local library and read as an ebook. I would purchase it to have in my library and for the projects. The descriptions and photos of the sewing methods are very clear. I took sewing lessons as a young girl, and the foundational lessons given here are how I learned.
They have served me well over the years, and this is one of the few books I have seen to lay these simple but important tips out in an understandable way. Sep 14, Mary Lou rated it it was amazing Shelves: Great sewing reference. I love her methodically way of sewing. The ideas behind enjoying the process and not just the end product.
Also working one taking my time, slowing down to make a better product in the end. Really like the way the projects build upon each other and that by the end of the book you have several new skills and a small dent in a new wardrobe. Dec 29, Bean rated it it was amazing. As far as sewing books go, this is my favorite. It's full of good info and easy to read.
In particular I like that it didn't only focus on the how-to's of sewing, but also how to pick fabrics, what tools you need, and even fabric care. Nov 30, Elizabeth rated it really liked it. My real problem with this book is the included patterns. Sizes are all on the same printed pieces, which is zooey even for an experienced stitcher.
Jan 31, Ursula Shelton rated it really liked it. I have been sewing for a while, but still consider myself a beginner. This book was great, it was simple and to the point. It covers everything from fabric to accessories, start up items and even includes patterns. I would highly recommend this book to a beginner; not a lot of fluff. It is also easy reading with nice color photo illustrations.
I really enjoyed reading this book. Mar 24, Erin rated it it was amazing. Loved to see her patterns. She did explain things pretty well. I just wish that she would explain things as if talking to someone who has never completed a project before.
I had a hard time perfecting my darts without details on how to go about. Aug 24, Fincalian added it Shelves: Also need to check this one out again when I'm sewing clothes sometime. The dresses are cute, and I want to try making a dress, but I'm not sure if any of the ones from this book suit me. Even so, there are very useful tips for fitting, and basic sewing of this nature.
Dec 02, Sarah rated it it was amazing Shelves: The descriptions were very easy-to-understand and I really learned a lot. While the e-book version was good to get a flavor for the book, I've made the decision to purchase the hard copy so I can try the patterns for myself!
Sep 14, heather rated it it was ok. May 28, Autumn rated it it was amazing Shelves: I don't think it's for a brand new beginner, but an advanced beginner could probably work it out.
What I love most is how much attention is spent on making an item fit properly.